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Where to eat, drink, stay, and explore to fully discover the Scottish city of Edinburgh like a local.

Watched over by a medieval castle and built from cobbles and sandstone, Edinburgh is undeniably one of the world’s most picturesque cities. From the historic Old Town to the Georgian New Town, bohemian Stockbridge to blustery Portobello Beach, the charms of the Scottish capital go beyond its history: vibrant cooking, abundant green space and a distinctly friendly spirit. Add to that a creative festival calendar that draws artists from across the globe, and you won’t even notice the temperamental weather and punishing hills. Part of a growing series of opinionated city guides, offering straight-talking insider advice on the world’s must-visit cities — from New York and Berlin to London and Paris.